OK…I’ll admit it…I’m interested to hear what’s so great about trolling. I have so many questions I’m not sure where to begin. To make it easy, I’ll give my current perspective on how I see trolling…both from observation and from relatively limited experience, and only from the angle of targeting walleye. It may sound like I’m arguing a position against trolling…I am not…just giving my current perspective. Any insights, suggestions, and tips are appreciated in advance.
Why trolling? If 90% of the fish are in 10% of the lake (probably more like 95/5), isn’t trolling largely a waste of effort 90% of the time?
Yeah…I know…the standard reply here is “trolling helps you find the fishâ€. Maybe…if you get one I suppose you could argue it helped you find “a fishâ€. Then what? Troll past the location again? And again? And again to see if there are, in fact, fish stacked there? And if they are, I’d assume you’d post-up and jig, slip bobber, or cast there. Right? Or do you keep trolling for some reason?
High-percentage locations can be identified on a map; why would you need to troll to find fish?
As long as you have a basic idea of how to read a bathy map and what structure the fish are likely to use given current wind and lake conditions, why waste a minute trolling? Wouldn’t it be a better use of time to ID several (5-10) likely structure locations on a bathy map and book around seeing which one is holding fish? And once you ID a pattern, you find similar structure and work that once a “spot†cools off.
Trolling crankbaits and similar lures seems to require some level of complexity with boat speed, line let-out, wave considerations, current considerations, depth adjustments, etc.
In my experience, I just throw the lure out there a ways behind the boat (no idea how far…not measured) and focus on a depth to keep the boat moving through. For example, I have a Hot-N-Tot on that runs about 9’-10’ at lowest backtrolling motor speed…so I keep the boat in 10’-14’ of water. Are there instances where you troll the same bait in 20’ or 30’ or 40’ of water? Yes…I know if you see a bait fish cloud at 15’ over 40’ of water you would then, but then you’d have to follow the bait cloud around (if possible) and troll around through it. Seems like a lot of chasing and not a lot of high-percentage fishing.
So, what’s the deal on crawler harnesses? On bottom? Middle water column? Other?
In my experience these things are too much hassle. Adjusting weight to speed, letting line out, snagging up, twisting the weight around the harness which is twisted around the hook which is twisted around the bait. I’ve read on this board everything from fishing them right off the bottom to getting them down somewhere between bottom and top. Which is best? Of course, if you mark suspended fish you would gauge how far down to troll/drift the harness and put weight on accordingly. But my contention would be this; if you mark suspended fish why wouldn’t you just slip bobber them? Or cast a crank to them?
I’m sure more questions will come out, but let’s start here. Thanks all…
31
I do troll for many different species but I will keep my response to walleye fishing. Usually when I'm trolling at Kipawa I am just covering water and trying to find new spots to fish. I locate a lot of fish along shoreline structure while trolling and then when I locate some fish I will mark the spot on my GPS. If I get nothing trolling by the location then I will go back and do exactly what you said, jig them up. I have trolled everything from harnesses on bottom bouncers and without any weight at all, suspending crankbaits in 10-25ft of water and I have trolled worm harnesses with a couple really big split shots or deep running cranks over 80ftw (a trick I learned at a local lake). I think there really isn't a bad answer to troll for walleye just the way you prefer. Some days the weather is to rough to jig in the middle of the lake so I troll. I definately catch more fish at Kipawa jigging but some days trolling and feeling the walleye smash the lure is just to much fun to pass up.
Hi Todd,
We all have our own personal preferences for how we like to fish. Without question, I like to be moving (back trolling with a bottom bouncer).
As I have stated in many posts, I back troll for walleye at least 80% of my time spent walleye fishing. I troll because I’m not clever enough to pre-determine where pods of walleye (> 10 walleye) will be found. Indeed, in all the years that I have back trolled for walleye in Kipawa area lakes, I have not often found locations where pods of walleye are located. What I typically see on my sonar unit is one, two or maybe even three walleye together. And sometimes when we’re lucky, my fishing partner and I will each catch a walleye in such a situation.
However, you are right, when I do find a pod of walleye, I will switch to a more efficient fishing method (e.g. vertical jigging, horizontal jigging, slip bobbering). I certainly don’t have anything against catching walleye with a jig. Indeed, one night on Lake Hebert, my fishing partner and I landed 98 walleye while jigging for 2 hours after supper.
Re crawler harnesses
I typically attach my crawler harness (single # 4 or 5 colorado blade + 2 hooks) to a 2 ounce bottom bouncer any time I’m fishing between 15 and 30 FOW. I’ll go to a 3 ounce bottom bouncer or larger if required by water depth or wind/current conditions. My objective is to keep my bait just above the bottom (2 or 3 inches). I accomplish this by letting my bouncer touch bottom every 30 seconds or so. Do I ever get snagged â€" sure â€" but it only happens occasionally â€" maybe twice a day. And usually, I'm able to retrieve my gear.
Although I don’t do this, there are some who simply long line crawler harnesses using the 50/50 method. For instance, if one attaches a ¾ ounce snap weight 50 feet in front of a crawler harness and then lets out another 50 feet of line, the crawler harness will run at 13-17 down in the water column if trolled at 1 mph.
While I don’t mind trolling crankbaits/stickbaits, I don’t do it often because usually my fishing partner isn’t equipped to use that method. I have the 8th Edition of Precision Trolling and I have well over 100 crankbaits. A couple of times, when fishing alone, I have enjoyed success trolling a Hot N Tot about 25 down in the water column. A good line counter reel spooled with Fireline 14/6 makes trolling crankbaits in the zone easy. Similarly, I use a line counter and magnum dipsy divers to troll deep for lake trout.
Lastly, whatever method one opts to use, it’s absolutely mandatory to have the bait/lure where the fish are â€" whether they are on the bottom or suspended somewhere between the top and the bottom. A great sonar unit is well worth its cost.
Just providing some of my thoughts.
Jay
Hey Todd,
I think, and to be blunt (but friendly) - you are over thinking it... the answer to all your questions is... because it is relaxing an it allows you to enjoy a beverage and listen to music and talk with your family/buddies.
Ok.. so now some more detailed responses... for me, I mix it up, I jig, I troll, I work a shore line and cast - all because I can and I enjoy them all, but to much of one thing can also be tooooo much.
I find (again, just my experience) trolling produces larger fish (on average) - jigging does produce numbers, as you mention (you have to find those pods where as you say 95% of the fish are in 5% of the water), but definitely larger walleye hunt down and munch-munch on crank baits!
And it is not all that complex - if you are running three lines out a boat, the one closes to shore - put on a cotton cordel that dives about 5 or 6 feet, the line out the middle of the boat in back - put on a 6 to 8 foot diving crank bait (or even 10) and make an attempt to keep the boat at the 10 to 12 foot depth - and the line out towards the center of the lake - put on whatever is working - try deeper! Try another shollow diver (2 feet - you never know what is suspended out there just hanging around watching the sun set - I've gotten some big pike that way). Yes, put out lots of line - at least 5 boat lengths, if not 6 or 8 boat lengths. Yes, adjust your speed from 1.2mph to 2.3mph - whatever seems to be working.
So, for worm harnesses - we had another conversation about those in another thread about 2 weeks ago... use as surface, put a twister weight on it and it runs 3 to 5 feet deep depending on speed, or put it behind a bottom bouncer (Jay's specialty!) with lots of line out - it all doesn't matter - just hook up, put the rod in the rod holder and enjoy the beautiful kipawa scenery, some music, some beverages and spending time with your family or buddies... because it is relaxing.
Enjoy...
Greg (18 days)
I fish sasseginega which isn’t to far from Kipawa always the 2 or 3rd week in June. I troll with the smallest hot n tot in 8 to 10 ft of water. Sure I get snagged but it seems if it isn’t hit rocks I’m not catching fish. I love to jig at prime times of the day but when the jigging gets slow I go trolling. I picked up 2 of my biggest walleyes around 11 am trolling. One 28 and other 29 and half not to mention the size of the pike that will smack that little hot n tot.
There is structure all over a lake. Fish will stack up at times in limited areas, but as the season goes on they will scatter due to temperature, cover and mainly bait. Like Greg said it allows you to explore and see the lake.
This is a great topic, with already many great responses. I’m completely walleye trolling clueless and read all of this information with much interest. Thanks all for sharing your years of experience!
We all go to Kipawa hoping to catch a lot of fish , and large ones at that . However , if that's the only reason you go , your missing out on a lot . You figure in the conditions and put yourself on the best location you can . Whether I'm jigging or trolling , as long as I'm on the lake with a line in the water, I'm a happy camper !
My first several years at Kipawa I trolled and trolled and trolled. Why? Because when our boat did try jigging, and if there was no action in a half hour or so, we would get antsy and start trolling again. While jigging, back then, it was as if time was wasting away (especially if no action). The nature of trolling itself exposes more sights and my brain didn't seem to shift back into neutral. As the years progressed and after getting to meet more experienced jig fisherman, and through the former Kipawa web site, corresponding with several members, (T_Bone was one) I slowly began to rethink my jigging opinion of being somewhat boring. One of General Rhybak's crew (Colonel Steve) gave me some terrific advise one day in Gerry's fish house. He told me an important part of jig fishing is "confidence in your spot." This also includes slip bobbering. With that confidence, anticipation and concentration goes up, and success seems to happen more often. I have concluded that sooner or later you'll catch fish at your chosen spot or any other spot on that beautiful lake, if you have enough time to wait for em. Enjoy yourself no matter what you're doing as there are no guarantees that those pesky fish will bite anyways..
C.C.
Quote from: Hodgey1 on June 26, 2019, 06:57:22 AM
This is a great topic, with already many great responses. I’m completely walleye trolling clueless and read all of this information with much interest. Thanks all for sharing your years of experience!
You will have to come with us for a walleye troll in September! With 4 or 6 people in the boat we can really cover most of the water column.
Trolling is our go to, if we aren't finding good schools.
We certainly need to sharpen up on our ability to pick areas that fish like to hold based on weather etc. Our confidence in finding shorelines to fish shallower than 15' has evaded us, that 15' to 25' depth seems to be magic for us. I would love to grab a stick bait and troll in 10' and catch'm, but this lake makes me nervous at that depth LOL!
Wow...let's take a breather here and let me catch-up:
Ozzy: Got it; use trolling to get a better detailed 'map' of the lake structure and note marked fish. Good use of time and effort that can pay dividends when heading out to pound the jig. And who knows...you may pick up a nice wally.
Jay: Pretty technical stuff there and probably a little too complex for the leisurely fishing approach I prefer; and I believe we discussed before...I don't rely on electronics to find walleyes...only the structure as to where the walleyes should be given current conditions. Really good depth of info though, it's clear you know the ins and outs of trolling techniques. Thanks.
Greg: If I had a rig like yours I'm sure trolling the lake and enjoying a few brews would be awesome; you can control the boat speed down to <1 MPH, nice comfortable seating, bimimi top to block the polarizing sun. Can you feel the jealousy? ;D And I'd say you're probably right...I am overthinking it. I know I can catch fish jigging and have at least 30+ proven spots near Alwaki that have produced fish at some point or another. A friend of mine told me trolling is for fisherman that don't know where to look for the fish, so they look everywhere. I don't think that's it, but it does seem like taking "the long way" to reach an objective. Cruising with tunes and a cold beer is appealing, at all times...
Tree: Small baits, tipping rocks, big fish. ;) I have a handful of those small Tots and I'll give it a try. I know just the run I want to try too. Thanks.
Balsams: In late-July it would be my take the fish are stacked on very certain locations on very certain locations (redundancy by design). The trick is getting on that very certain location. I'm not sure how "spread out" is defined, but when we're into a good bite I'd estimate fish groups numbering in the 30+ range....probably many more than that. If you're catching 20 or more fish in an hour, you'd have to believe they're not the same fish and that there are bunches of them down there.
Hodgey: I know why you want to learn about trolling...getting a little 'BP' in your blood... ;D
Get: I go to catch fish, bigs are a bonus, numbers are preferred to size. And like what was recently said, I think the trip is more of a relaxing trip into the woods where a little fishing breaks out from time to time.
CC: Wise words. Jigging does require confidence in your approach, the ability to read the conditions and the map, and the flexibility to "try the next spot" when things get slow. It's actually a pretty simple approach to fishing...which is probably why I prefer it.
GregL: 4 to 6 people trolling in a boat? THAT would be something I MUST see!!!! Sheesh...my group of guys with (3) lines in the water trolling out of the same boat is like watching an old 3 Stooges episode...just shy of a melee at any given time. From Alwaki, in summer, I can think of at least 5-7 spots that have fish on them virtually every time we hit them. I'm not saying we're always successful with every spot, but I'd bet anything the fish are there (and we're just off the mark on hitting their exact location).
Still not picking-up the "here's how you want to approach fishing a crawler harness" out of this thread other than there are many, many ways to do it. That may lend to versatility, but I'd bet there's a "best way", and then a handful of others that may work too.
Again...thanks all...great education.
Opinion time - because you are asking. The best way to fish a worm harness is with a rubber-twist weight about 5 feet in front of the worm harness - troll about 1.4 mph in 8 to 12 feet depth. Put at least 100 feet of line out. Enjoy!
As for your comments about my old boat you saw years ago, thanks! It's been gone 3 years now though. I hope to show you the new rig sometime. I rarely use my Bimini top - just gets in the way.
Greg. (...17)
We have always used 3/8 ounce rubber core sinkers with a 15 hp going forward about 1.2
We can get down to bottom in 30 feet with about 45 feet out . Just let it out until it lays flat on the top
If you are in 15 feet or less max you have put out is a couple feet more then the depth
Don’t understand why you would need 2-3 ounce bottom bouncers to get to bottom?
Unless I am totally missing something ?
Bottom bouncer with a 4 to 6 feet worm harness will bring your bait 1foot or 2 off the bottom and you don't have to drag it 100 ft behind the boat,as long as you have a 45% angle and feel the bottom your good.
Quote from: crackers42 on June 26, 2019, 07:34:32 PM
Don’t understand why you would need 2-3 ounce bottom bouncers to get to bottom?Unless I am totally missing something ?
The general rule for bottom bouncers is for 1oz per 10ft of depth. Like chummy mentioned you don't want your line at any more than a 45° angle. Back trolling with a bouncer allows you to precisely cover specific structure areas that you could never do with standard trolling.
Cheers
Sorry but I from experience we only target 4 to 25 feet all year no need to go deeper
The point I am trying to make is you can have a 3/8 ounce or half ounce rubber core sinker on 45 degree angle in 25 feet of water with 35 feet of like out max
Pickerel spoke very easily in the summer months
From my experience a heavy bottom bouncer is not needed but that is merely my opinion
Have always wondered why use a heavy set up if you don’t have to
Lighter the better
1 oz for 10 feet or 2 oz for 20 feet is way too much if you are trolling at normal sports ie. 1.2 to 1.5
Here's an educational article on bottom bouncing - see https://www.northernontario.travel/algoma-country/summer-walleye-fishing-with-bottom-bouncer-and-spinner-rigs
Jay
Thanks for the article jay interesting read
All I am saying is you need two ounces to get a bottom bouncer down as there is extra drag
1/2 ounce rubber core is plenty in 20 feet of water
If anyone hasn’t tried and wants a lighter set up give it a try you won’t be disappointed
Quote from: crackers42 on June 27, 2019, 10:45:13 AM
Thanks for the article jay interesting read
All I am saying is you need two ounces to get a bottom bouncer down as there is extra drag
1/2 ounce rubber core is plenty in 20 feet of water
If anyone hasn’t tried and wants a lighter set up give it a try you won’t be disappointed
Crackers you really need to stop being so stubborn, a half ounce weight will have your line way too far back to have the proper control like a bottom bouncer gives you, it's not at all like regular long line trolling.
Did you read this paragraph? It's pretty obvious that if this technique is preferred by the pros there is a lot of merit to using them.
"To professional walleye fishermen, the bottom bouncer and spinner rig is affectionately referred to as the "money rig". This common walleye presentation has won more money for more tournament anglers
than all the other fishing presentations combined!"
That should tell you all you need to know instead of knocking it because according to you it's too much weight. Nobody is saying that trolling anything won't work, but there are many other techniques that can work as well or better. Those heavy weights are what keeps your line at the proper angle with a minimal amount of line out at differing depths and wind conditions along with keeping it mostly vertical.
Cheers
Quote from: smitty55 on June 26, 2019, 09:06:21 PM
Quote from: crackers42 on June 26, 2019, 07:34:32 PM
Don’t understand why you would need 2-3 ounce bottom bouncers to get to bottom?Unless I am totally missing something ?
The general rule for bottom bouncers is for 1oz per 10ft of depth. Like chummy mentioned you don't want your line at any more than a 45° angle. Back trolling with a bouncer allows you to precisely cover specific structure areas that you could never do with standard trolling.
Cheers
EXACTLY! We do the same, except I troll with my bow TM. Also, they are "Bottom bouncers" not "Bottom Draggers".
Here is our method.
1) Start boat get to desired speed. For me I start at 1.5 and move up/down depending on fish.
2) On a taught line drop bouncer to bottom. I pull the rod forward and slowly let rod back till it's 45 degrees behind me.
3) close reel and pull rod forward until it's perpendicular to me, this get's me just off bottom and I can drop rod back to 45 degrees to tick the bottom every once and awhile.
4) Then I zig zag from 10 to 25' until I find the fish
Another thing that really helps is having a reel that has flipping switch for temporary letting line out.
Hope that helps :)
Oh and I've done 4 lines trolling no problem, 6 is a challenge I want to try! Trolling for me should not be relaxing unless your on a very defined pattern you should be changing baits/depths every 5-10 mins until they are dialed in. (This has been a hard practice for us, we grab lures we've done well with and just start trolling. We were much better this year on the May long weekend and it paid off!)
I don't know...if you ask me they're more a "dragger" than they are a "bouncer". How do I know? Whenever I use one, I refer to them as a "Snagger". :P
Quote from: GregL on June 27, 2019, 01:42:20 PM
Also, they are "Bottom bouncers" not "Bottom Draggers".
Here is our method.
1) Start boat get to desired speed. For me I start at 1.5 and move up/down depending on fish.
2) On a taught line drop bouncer to bottom. I pull the rod forward and slowly let rod back till it's 45 degrees behind me.
3) close reel and pull rod forward until it's perpendicular to me, this get's me just off bottom and I can drop rod back to 45 degrees to tick the bottom every once and awhile.
4) Then I zig zag from 10 to 25' until I find the fish
I've finally figured out all this science behind trolling and think I have it translated. Here is really what you need to know:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2s952iq.png)
Quote from: T-Bone on June 27, 2019, 02:13:50 PM
I don't know...if you ask me they're more a "dragger" than they are a "bouncer". How do I know? Whenever I use one, I refer to them as a "Snagger". :P
I just don't believe it's logical to criticize a fishing method just because you don't know how to do it properly.
Todd, you started this thread with:
OK…I’ll admit it…I’m interested to hear what’s so great about trolling. I have so many questions I’m not sure where to begin. To make it easy, I’ll give my current perspective on how I see trolling…both from observation and from relatively limited experience, and only from the angle of targeting walleye. It may sound like I’m arguing a position against trolling…I am not…just giving my current perspective. Any insights, suggestions, and tips are appreciated in advance.
Yet, your responses to posts supportive of trolling seem negative. I'm starting to wonder whether this thread was intended as a "troll".
Jay
I'm trolling for information Jay, that's all. If I was looking to indict the method I would have just done so from the start. At the most, I guess I'm asking the group to change a perception I have of trolling given my lack of complete understanding.
So to this point, my opinion is based off the answers to my questions. Nothing more. I've learned a lot and will definitely apply some of it when we're up there. And I'm not criticizing BB as a method, and I do understand it. The bottom bouncer comment is simply an observation of my experience; near Alwaki, when used, we snagged a lot...hence we abandoned trying. I'm sure that method works given the right structure (bottom make-up) and being able to consistently apply sharpness to speed, direction, line release, etc.
And for you mathematicians out there, please don't take offense to my joke...it was only in fun...
I kind of liked the math and found it quite amusing. With all this knowledge you have gotten from this thread I will soon have you in the boat with Mattie and I trolling for Lake Trout.
Quote from: Ozzy30 on June 27, 2019, 04:55:47 PM
I kind of liked the math and found it quite amusing. With all this knowledge you have gotten from this thread I will soon have you in the boat with Mattie and I trolling for Lake Trout.
As long as you're the Captain, I'm confident I can't lose...thanks Ozzy. 8)
Smitty55: to each their own
I am speaking from a lot of years experience and merely trying to give another perspective
If one wants a bottom bouncer then use it by all means and enjoy
All I am saying if you are in 20 feet of water you do not more then a half ounce at most to troll if your preference is a lighter set up
If your preference is fishing with a purple rod, pink line, green lure in the worst hail storm known to man then enjoy
All Todd wanted was various techniques
Todd: I was going to recap what “we†have done for the last 20 years from opener to fall and various techniques in order to help others that can’t make it up as much as some of us but not sure if I want the feedback
Correct on all counts...especially to each his own. We throw a bucket of techniques at them when we go...try it all...but mostly jig. I'm just trying to refine what we should do when trying this or that.
I still have questions about how far the crawler harness is behind the weight...do you use a 3-way swivel...why does a lure need to be X feet behind the bottom bouncer...what blade color is better for this or that. I could go on and on. But...what I really want to know on the rubber core weight set up or any that might mimic it; are you fishing "on bottom" or a few feet above it...in an ideal set up?
And Crackers...I'd appreciate that summary. You can send it to me PM if you want...I'd love to have the insights you have on that lake and how to fish it. The only feedback you will get is probably more questions. It would be priceless. Thanks for the offer.
Still 29...
Which ever method you prefer, a smaller blade on your harness will keep you deeper and in the strike zone than the lager blades (you equation proves it). Too much drag from the large blades.
Quote from: BH on June 27, 2019, 09:29:36 PM
Which ever method you prefer, a smaller blade on your harness will keep you deeper and in the strike zone than the lager blades (you equation proves it). Too much drag from the large blades.
Are most people making their own worm harnesses or is there a particular brand/style/size that is preferred for Kipawa for purchase? Having never used one, when I look to purchase some for my up coming trip to Kip in July, the selection I see online at places like Bass Pro are slim.
(http://i64.tinypic.com/6qxm2x.jpg)
Hodgey: I will PM you a picture of the ones we make up pretty simple and cost effective although the brass hooks are somewhat tough to find.
Usually if we have a rainy day at the camp the lure making material will make its way to the kitchen table with some beverages.
Quote from: Hodgey1 on June 28, 2019, 08:21:18 AM
Quote from: BH on June 27, 2019, 09:29:36 PM
Which ever method you prefer, a smaller blade on your harness will keep you deeper and in the strike zone than the lager blades (you equation proves it). Too much drag from the large blades.
Are most people making their own worm harnesses or is there a particular brand/style/size that is preferred for Kipawa for purchase? Having never used one, when I look to purchase some for my up coming trip to Kip in July, the selection I see online at places like Bass Pro are slim.
(http://i64.tinypic.com/6qxm2x.jpg)
I tie my own snells and put the beads on in the boat. I found a pretty quick method and you can make a TON of combos ahead of time.
Quote from: T-Bone on June 27, 2019, 02:13:50 PM
I don't know...if you ask me they're more a "dragger" than they are a "bouncer". How do I know? Whenever I use one, I refer to them as a "Snagger". :P
Quote from: GregL on June 27, 2019, 01:42:20 PM
Also, they are "Bottom bouncers" not "Bottom Draggers".
Here is our method.
1) Start boat get to desired speed. For me I start at 1.5 and move up/down depending on fish.
2) On a taught line drop bouncer to bottom. I pull the rod forward and slowly let rod back till it's 45 degrees behind me.
3) close reel and pull rod forward until it's perpendicular to me, this get's me just off bottom and I can drop rod back to 45 degrees to tick the bottom every once and awhile.
4) Then I zig zag from 10 to 25' until I find the fish
I've finally figured out all this science behind trolling and think I have it translated. Here is really what you need to know:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2s952iq.png)
HAHA! They definitely can be that on this lake. You really have to stay on them and just tick the bottom every once in awhile in the Alwaki area. Though I have found a few spots where you can get a pretty lengthy troll with them.
Hodgey,, I've made hundreds of worm harnesses over the years since my first Kipawa trip in 1997. There is something very satisfying along with a feeling of accomplishment when you catch a fish on a lure of your own creation. There are many different types of blades, and beads out there, along with all the different colors, that can make your harnesses truly unique. I've even added some soft plastics such as a frog or minnow imitation to some harnesses. You can add hair or feathers, or use a wire shaft, the choices are endless. You can tie em with one, two, or three hooks and use different hook styles. I haven't used a store bought harness for years. I've caught fish with a lot of different styles of harnesses but can honestly say my results are no better than the store bought versions. It's just a good feeling and far less expensive. Terrific way to spend some time on a cold, cabin fever day too! I've given harnesses to everyone that has made the Kipawa with me and my 5 grandsons and 6 great grandsons will never ever have to buy a harness in their lives. It will give them something to remember me by when I'm gone as well. Give it a try and enjoy!
C.C.
Quote from: Hodgey1 on June 28, 2019, 08:21:18 AMAre most people making their own worm harnesses or is there a particular brand/style/size that is preferred for Kipawa for purchase? Having never used one, when I look to purchase some for my up coming trip to Kip in July, the selection I see online at places like Bass Pro are slim.
Hi Hodgey1,
Please take my comments with a grain of salt since I only use crawler harnesses behind bottom bouncers (usually a 2 ounce bottom bouncer).
I've been fortunate enough to spend some time with CaptainCrappie on Lake Kipawa. Consequently, I have been witness to his creative juices regarding his harness making. It was a real treat to see the enjoyment he took from that endeavour.
However, for myself, I'm simply too lazy to tie crawler harnesses. My go to supplier for crawler harnesses has been Northland Tackle. I used to be able to purchase their Baitfish Spinner Harness in RCH3, RCH4 and RCH5 (the number signifies the size of the Colorado blade). My last order was in 2012 when I ordered 60 RCH4 and 60 RCH5 harnesses (my walleye trips are in August and September). I have approximately 15 of each size still remaining from that order. Unfortunately, now, only sizes RCH3 and RCH4 are available - see https://shop.northlandtackle.com/seasonal-tackle/0pen-water-fishing/baitfish-spinner-harness/ The 2019 cost is $8.29 USD per card of 3 harnesses.
I believe it is important to have various sized blades available as well as different colour patterns. The Silver Shiner and Sunrise colours have been the most productive colours for me. Although I have always preferred Colorado blades, I'm sure there are many who prefer Willow blades.
One caveat though. We must always remember to experiment and let the walleye educate us as to what works best.
Jay
Quote from: Jay Thomas on June 28, 2019, 11:38:18 AM
However, for myself, I'm simply too lazy to tie crawler harnesses.
Thanks for the info Jay! I fall into that same situation, more about time constraints than anything right now. I will become a worm harness making machine when I retire!
Quote from: Jay Thomas on June 28, 2019, 11:38:18 AM
I've been fortunate enough to spend some time with @CaptainCrappie on Lake Kipawa. Consequently, I have been witness to his creative juices regarding his harness making. It was a real treat to see the enjoyment he took from that endeavor.
I must hook up with
@CaptainCrappie for some lessons. :)
Quote from: crackers42 on June 28, 2019, 09:35:46 AM
Hodgey: I will PM you a picture of the ones we make up pretty simple and cost effective although the brass hooks are somewhat tough to find.
Please do. Thanks :)
Hodgeye, a quick class on harness making can be found on YOUTUBE. There's of zillion sites you can check out. Once you have the knot down pat the rest is gravy. Give it a try. I have discovered that tying harnesses is good medicine to do to avoid Alzheimer's disease. Because, I know why I tie them and remember how to do it. I'm just not sure why I need so many of them so I don't know when to quit making them. Come to think of it, maybe tying harnesses is not a good medicine against Alzheimer's, but I'll use it for now.
C.C.
I find trolling with blue rapala catches larger walleye
than any other way.
I was reading
@Jig and drift 's trip report from his week at lake Dumoine, he mentioned trolling for Eye's and picking up a lot of Northerns. My question is, if you are fishing an area that you know you are going to be picking up the occasional Pike, do you use a steel leader?
I use a steel leader except when I am jigging...when I'm jigging the leader takes away some of the ability to feel the hits, especially if the walleye bite is soft.
I WAS BROUGHT UP A TROLLER IT WAS PAST DOWN TO ME .IT WORKS FOR ME . JIGGING HAS NOT WORKED FOR ME BUT I HAVE NOT DEVOTED THE TIME NEED TO BECOME A GOOD JIGGER. EACH YEAR I PLAN TO JIGG BUT NEVER SEEM TO FIND THE TIME.
When we troll we do use the steel leader. Our go to is the small sized Rapala hot en tot silver with the black back. Have used worm harnesses but as a drift method on a good windy day, like a lot of Lake Erie folk do.
Hodgey,
If you want to run a leader your better off to run 30 lb Fluro carbon
Invisible under water and will take the abuse
Hodgey
There are also a series of Lake Erie worm harnesses out there being manufactured using steel line as the main.
Quote from: RHYBAK on July 15, 2019, 02:24:26 PM
There are also a series of Lake Erie worm harnesses out there being manufactured using steel line as the main.
Thanks Rybak, I have a trip scheduled to our Field & Stream store tomorrow and plan on picking up a few.
Your buddies at FishUSA have them
https://www.fishusa.com/Challenger-ThreeD-Thumper-Worm-Harnesses
oops , sorry
I just noticed they have zero stock