OK...I think I have a good feel for the Snap Rap and Jigging Rap...on to the next presentation...Slippin'....
For those of you out here that use that technique, I have a very important question. Once the 'bobber' slips below the surface and starts taking off like the barrels in the Jaws movie, how long do you wait to set the hook? And is there a proper technique for that?
When I've done this before on Kipawa...I see the float taking off getting deeper and further away....I wait a few seconds...reel in any slack or distance between my rod tip and the bobber...the put a loooong sweep set on it. Seemed to work OK...but I was just improvising as that seemed like what I "should" do.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/35iotoo.jpg)
Any fish I set hard as soon as I feel or see line bump... I like hooking in the lips, not in the throat.
Circle hook you can sidesweep softly to set hook.
Works for me.
Count slowly to 5 and set the hook. If ithe bobber is moving side ways it is most likely a bass. Red hooks and a leech work best for me. 3 more days until we're off to Temiscaming! Anyone else going to be spending Friday there?
I usually wait a few seconds (I like Oarin's 5 second idea, but don't actually count) and then set the hook. The smaller 'eyes or perch will let go quickly so you are less likely to end up with an empty hook if you wait and the float stays down. The Captain uses circle hooks and he waits an agonizingly loooong time to try to set the hook. I am nowhere near that patient but do enjoy watching the beads of sweat run down his forehead as he agonizes over "when"! ;D I, too, use red hooks with good success.
Yes I do use circle hooks. I also put a glow bead above it. I can't tell if that makes any difference, I just do it. One year I hooked and landed every walleye that took down that bobber. Now that doesn't happen much! I love that agonizing wait. Sometimes you can see that submerged float do all kinds of things. Stop, go. rise, go a little deeper... Even pop back up if that walleye decides to spit that leech out. But... if you can't stand that wait and try to set that hook too soon. Better luck next time cause ya just pulled out your leech.
C.C.
What everyone else said is all good. One thing not mentioned was the right sinker choice.
Greg Bohn, author of Mastering the Art of Slip Bobbering, advised fishermen to balance the weight of their rig so that a big walleye doesn’t feel too much resistance from the bobber and let the bait go. According to Greg, a 1/16 ounce rubber core sinker will balance most small bobbers and live bait while a 1/8 ounce rubber core sinker will balance medium bobbers and live bait. A ¼ ounce rubber core sinker apparently works well with large bobbers. The weight should be placed about half way between the swivel and the hook. A rule of thumb for how much weight to use is to add sufficient weight to sink the bobber to the paint strip (midway on most bobbers).
Jay
Jay; I appreciate you mentioning the weights. A point often missed in slip bobbering technique discussions. Thanks
It is something I learned through trial & error slip bobbering for crappie.
Jay
Why have a swivel on the line?
Quote from: Jay Thomas on July 11, 2017, 06:22:08 PM
a 1/16 ounce rubber core sinker will balance most small bobbers and live bait while a 1/8 ounce rubber core sinker will balance medium bobbers and live bait. A ¼ ounce rubber core sinker apparently works well with large bobbers. The weight should be placed about half way between the swivel and the hook.
I would think adding a swivel would limit your ability to change the depth your fishing unless you had a very short leader from the swivel to the hook. Could reduce line twist, I guess.
As for 'adding' weight, when I've used this method in the past I simple just use a weighted jig as my hook/presentation. I guess that kills two birds with one stone. Or, is this not a good way to go? I suppose you could go with a plain light hook (circle or other style) and THEN add the weight, but unless there's a distinct advantage to that I'm not sure why adding tackle to a rig is 'better'.
Thanks for the insights all...
22,787 minutes...
T-Bone
You are missing out on a lot of fun by using a jighead.
By using just a barehook for the leech, we get to undo knots when the leech curls up the line.
We get to undo knots in our line produced by the leech twisting and turning.
Jigheads take all the fun out of it.
Besides, all the books and authors can saw what they want, print what they want etc.
The are not gods and their theories are not gospel.
You do whatever works for you.
You're not catching as much as you would they other way, but it does work for you.
I personally find what I like from trial and error and I am really impressed when somebody publishes my method to share with the rest of the fishing world.
I don't mind them taking all the credit.
Count slowly to 5 and set the hook. in french or in english??
Quote from: RHYBAK on July 12, 2017, 07:36:44 AM
Jay
Why have a swivel on the line?
The reel on my slip bobbering rod is spooled with 8/3 Crystal Fireline. I always use a fluorocarbon leader when slip bobbering. Consequently, therein lies my reason for a swivel. And to facilitate constant fishing, I pretie a number of fluorocarbon leaders with hooks so that if I incur a break/bite off or a frayed line, I can easily put on another fluorocarbon leader with hook. I routinely use size 4 double wide fine wire red hooks. And as you advised, I'm just doing what works for me.
Jay
Quote from: Jay Thomas on July 12, 2017, 10:56:21 AM
Quote from: RHYBAK on July 12, 2017, 07:36:44 AM
Jay
Why have a swivel on the line?
The reel on my slip bobbering rod is spooled with 8/3 Crystal Fireline. I always use a fluorocarbon leader when slip bobbering. Consequently, therein lies my reason for a swivel. And to facilitate constant fishing, I pretie a number of fluorocarbon leaders with hooks so that if I incur a break/bite off or a frayed line, I can easily put on another fluorocarbon leader with hook. I routinely use size 4 double wide fine wire red hooks. And as you advised, I'm just doing what works for me.
Jay
I understand now.
Quote from: T-Bone on July 12, 2017, 09:13:12 AM
I would think adding a swivel would limit your ability to change the depth your fishing unless you had a very short leader from the swivel to the hook. Could reduce line twist, I guess. As for 'adding' weight, when I've used this method in the past I simple just use a weighted jig as my hook/presentation. I guess that kills two birds with one stone. Or, is this not a good way to go? I suppose you could go with a plain light hook (circle or other style) and THEN add the weight, but unless there's a distinct advantage to that I'm not sure why adding tackle to a rig is 'better'.
I don't understand how adding a swivel between my main line and my 30 inch fluorocarbon leader limits my ability to change the depth at which I want to fish. Perhaps you could elaborate. For clarification, my slip bobber knot is above the swivel.
As for using weighted jigs, Greg Bohn recommends using the lightest jig possible. If more weight is required to balance the rig, add weight to the line, not at the jig. I am simply passing along a recognized expert's opinion FWIW.
Jay
Hey Jay...just saying if you wanted to fish in less than 30" of water the swivel would prevent that. Not sure it would matter if only using a 30" leader, but if you were using a 4-foot leader it certainly would.
Good stuff here all...thanks.
Count 5 seconds in French ;D ;D ;D ...can't do it. "Bloh, tweh, ques, dros, floooh...". That sounds about right... :P
22,617 minutes...
Never thought about languages. I guess to be safe count to 7 in French. ;D To echo what Jay said, you want enough weight to barely keep the bobber floating. The less resistance the better.
I will admit that I was confused about the swivel because I use mono on my float/bobber line.
I find the floats that I use do no let braid run through them smoothly.
Therefor I stick to Mono on my set up.
I use Thill bobbers that are weighted and have the pass through hole lined with an insert. The line never gets stuck and slides through easily. The diameter of the bobber hole is uniformly consistent, no burrs or paint build up to worry about. Occasionally, ]depending on the type of bobber stop used, (line vs rubber) the bead may pass over the stop, but that is easily fixed by using a bead with a smaller diameter through hole. But then... if the bead itself is too small, it may pass through the rod eyelets and hinder casting. Ya just gotta watch what's happening.
C.C.
Quote from: CaptainCrappie on July 12, 2017, 08:12:59 PM
But then... if the bead itself is too small, it may pass through the rod eyelets and hinder casting. Ya just gotta watch what's happening.
Never have had that problem and I do use a bead. I think I watch what's happening, in general...but there's always some silly BS happening in the boat that gets me belly-laughing...
Related but different question. 'String' stops or rubber? I like rubber better, but are harder to put on.
OK...so I got enough weight for center line, 5 seconds in French, no jig unless you don't want wiggle/wrap-up problems (double negative on purpose), 10-hour clock dial sweeping hookset that takes another 7-seconds in German, and no small beads. I think I'm set.
I generally use the string stops but don't cut the ends too short because you can pull em tight again if they get loose or get hung up on an eyelet and move. The rubber stops hold better but they too can make casting a bit difficult depending on the size of the rod eyelets. I've used slip bobbers crappie fishing for a zillion years and like to use lite or ultralite rods/reels and use those same rods/reels for those walleyes at Kipawa . Just more fun for me. The string stops seem to cause me less problems. Using slip bobbers... some days it may seem like it's rocket science but then some days life is more challenging. I don't know if its biorythms or invisible gremlins playing tricks, but ever had a day when everything you do seems to backfire? The same set up works one day and not the next?
Ever look for that hidden camera when things go silly wrong? Remember Candid Camera? I've got enough material stored in my brain to last several years for that show.... and sometimes it wasn't just me! When your buddy gets all tangled up or gets all wind knotted up, looses his temper, or makes a cast that lands behind him... tell me that doesn't bring a smile to your face!
C.C.
We much prefer the string stoppers. I leave the strings on too for the same reason the Captain mentioned.
Just wondering, in your opinion, how is the slip bobber superior to just a good old fashioned jig? I understand how it would be better fishing from shore but not from a boat. When we jig we generally toss the jig out, reel it until we feel it come off the bottom and then get it to the right depth...
Joe, using slip bobbers, unless that fish tangles you up on some type of structure,, you wont loose your rig getting hung up. Like in those pesky rocks. Usually fishing a jig you contact the bottom first and keep it moving, trying not to find those cracks in the rocks. I lost 4 jigs in a row once. Those jigs probably found the same crack. That bait on a slip bobber can hover mere inches off the bottom if you want.
C.C.
In shallow water, < 4 ft. I have found that a spring style float works well and I use the slip bobber for deeper fishing. Saw this on some show Jon Thelen hosted (Lindy Fish Ed). This allows the use of leader if desired. 8 days till we goo 600 miles north like others from Ohio.
@CaptainCrappie didn't think of that...that's why I love this forum! I may need to try it this year.
Awesome information! I have wanted to try a slip bobber for a long time..gonna do this year for sure!
I like the idea of a quick hook set so you get stuck before it goes down the throat!
Quote from: GregL on July 14, 2017, 11:23:40 AMI like the idea of a quick hook set so you get stuck before it goes down the throat!
In my experience slip bobbering walleye on Lac Kipawa in late Jun, attempts at quick hook sets when the bobber is pulled under often results in no fish. This result is a consequence of the walleye taking the bobber under by only holding the tip of a leech or a crawler and as soon as the walleye feels any pressure, the walleye lets go of the bait. Therein lies the reason for playing the waiting game before a sweep hook set. CaptainCrappie's use of circle hooks is the best way to avoid hooking walleye in the gullet.
Jay
Thanks Jay! You probably just saved me a very frustrating trip.. Why can't I keep these eyes on! HAHAHA!
Ok,
I'm gonna stock up on these, for our September trip. Is this the typical type of bobber used when slip bobbering for walleye on Kipawa?
(http://ontariofishing.net/news2008/2008-2-3.jpg)
What size should I be picking up?
Yes. That's a good standard shape. I like to use the weighted version which has a light weight attached to the lower line through stem. The weighted version has a better tendency to stay vertical when there is wind and waves are present.
C.C.
I personally do not use the weighted bobber.
For me, the main reason is if a fish takes your bait and swims upward instead of down; then the float will lay over on its side.
Although that may not be an issue with walleyes.
If you've used slip bobbers, go with what you know.
If you're a beginner with them, Jay and the Captain have never steered me wrong.