Slip Bobbering for 'Eyes

[T-Bone]

OK...I think I have a good feel for the Snap Rap and Jigging Rap...on to the next presentation...Slippin'....

For those of you out here that use that technique, I have a very important question. Once the 'bobber' slips below the surface and starts taking off like the barrels in the Jaws movie, how long do you wait to set the hook? And is there a proper technique for that?

When I've done this before on Kipawa...I see the float taking off getting deeper and further away....I wait a few seconds...reel in any slack or distance between my rod tip and the bobber...the put a loooong sweep set on it. Seemed to work OK...but I was just improvising as that seemed like what I "should" do.

[Canuckbass]

Any fish I set hard as soon as I feel or see line bump... I like hooking in the lips, not in the throat.
Circle hook you can sidesweep softly to set hook.
Works for me.

[Oarin]

Count slowly to 5 and set the hook. If ithe bobber is moving side ways it is most likely a bass. Red hooks and a leech work best for me. 3 more days until we're off to Temiscaming! Anyone else going to be spending Friday there?

[Cmdr. Bluegill]

I usually wait a few seconds (I like Oarin's 5 second idea, but don't actually count) and then set the hook.  The smaller 'eyes or perch will let go quickly so you are less likely to end up with an empty hook if you wait and the float stays down.  The Captain uses circle hooks and he waits an agonizingly loooong time to try to set the hook.  I am nowhere near that patient but do enjoy watching the beads of sweat run down his forehead as he agonizes over "when"!    I, too, use red hooks with good success.

[CaptainCrappie]

Yes I do use circle  hooks. I also put a glow bead above it.  I can't tell if that makes any difference, I just do it.  One year I hooked and landed every walleye that took down that bobber. Now that doesn't happen much! I love that agonizing wait.  Sometimes you can see that submerged float do all kinds of things. Stop, go. rise, go a little deeper... Even pop back up if that walleye decides to spit that leech out.  But... if you can't stand that wait and try to set that hook too soon.  Better luck next time cause ya just pulled out your leech.

C.C.

[Jay Thomas]

What everyone else said is all good. One thing not mentioned was the right sinker choice.

Greg Bohn, author of Mastering the Art of Slip Bobbering, advised fishermen to balance the weight of their rig so that a big walleye doesn’t feel too much resistance from the bobber and let the bait go. According to Greg, a 1/16 ounce rubber core sinker will balance most small bobbers and live bait while a 1/8 ounce rubber core sinker will balance medium bobbers and live bait. A ¼ ounce rubber core sinker apparently works well with large bobbers. The weight should be placed about half way between the swivel and the hook. A rule of thumb for how much weight to use is to add sufficient weight to sink the bobber to the paint strip (midway on most bobbers).

Jay

[SgtCrabby]

Jay;  I appreciate you mentioning the weights.   A point often missed in slip bobbering technique discussions. Thanks

It is something I learned through trial & error slip bobbering for crappie.

[RHYBAK]

Jay

Why have a swivel on the line?

[T-Bone]

a 1/16 ounce rubber core sinker will balance most small bobbers and live bait while a 1/8 ounce rubber core sinker will balance medium bobbers and live bait. A ¼ ounce rubber core sinker apparently works well with large bobbers. The weight should be placed about half way between the swivel and the hook.

I would think adding a swivel would limit your ability to change the depth your fishing unless you had a very short leader from the swivel to the hook. Could reduce line twist, I guess. 

As for 'adding' weight, when I've used this method in the past I simple just use a weighted jig as my hook/presentation. I guess that kills two birds with one stone. Or, is this not a good way to go? I suppose you could go with a plain light hook (circle or other style) and THEN add the weight, but unless there's a distinct advantage to that I'm not sure why adding tackle to a rig is 'better'.

Thanks for the insights all...

22,787 minutes...

[RHYBAK]

T-Bone
You are missing out on a lot of fun by using a jighead.

By using just a barehook for the leech, we get to undo knots when the leech curls up the line.
We get to undo knots in our line produced by the leech twisting and turning.
Jigheads take all the fun out of it.

Besides, all the books and authors can saw what they want, print what they want etc.
The are not gods and their theories are not gospel.
You do whatever works for you.

You're not catching as much as you would they other way, but it does work for you.

I personally find what I like from trial and error and I am really impressed when somebody publishes my method to share with the rest of the fishing world.
I don't mind them taking all the credit.

[limacharley]

  Count slowly to 5 and set the hook.  in french or in english??

[Jay Thomas]

Jay

Why have a swivel on the line?

The reel on my slip bobbering rod is spooled with 8/3 Crystal Fireline. I always use a fluorocarbon leader when slip bobbering. Consequently, therein lies my reason for a swivel. And to facilitate constant fishing, I pretie a number of fluorocarbon leaders with hooks so that if I incur a break/bite off or a frayed line, I can easily put on another fluorocarbon leader with hook. I routinely use size 4 double wide fine wire red hooks. And as you advised, I'm just doing what works for me.

Jay

[RHYBAK]

Jay

Why have a swivel on the line?

The reel on my slip bobbering rod is spooled with 8/3 Crystal Fireline. I always use a fluorocarbon leader when slip bobbering. Consequently, therein lies my reason for a swivel. And to facilitate constant fishing, I pretie a number of fluorocarbon leaders with hooks so that if I incur a break/bite off or a frayed line, I can easily put on another fluorocarbon leader with hook. I routinely use size 4 double wide fine wire red hooks. And as you advised, I'm just doing what works for me.

Jay

I understand now.

[Jay Thomas]

I would think adding a swivel would limit your ability to change the depth your fishing unless you had a very short leader from the swivel to the hook. Could reduce line twist, I guess.  As for 'adding' weight, when I've used this method in the past I simple just use a weighted jig as my hook/presentation. I guess that kills two birds with one stone. Or, is this not a good way to go? I suppose you could go with a plain light hook (circle or other style) and THEN add the weight, but unless there's a distinct advantage to that I'm not sure why adding tackle to a rig is 'better'.

I don't understand how adding a swivel between my main line and my 30 inch fluorocarbon leader limits my ability to change the depth at which I want to fish. Perhaps you could elaborate. For clarification, my slip bobber knot is above the swivel.

As for using weighted jigs, Greg Bohn recommends using the lightest jig possible. If more weight is required to balance the rig, add weight to the line, not at the jig. I am simply passing along a recognized expert's opinion FWIW.

Jay

[T-Bone]

Hey Jay...just saying if you wanted to fish in less than 30" of water the swivel would prevent that. Not sure it would matter if only using a 30" leader, but if you were using a 4-foot leader it certainly would.

Good stuff here all...thanks.

Count 5 seconds in French  ...can't do it. "Bloh, tweh, ques, dros, floooh...". That sounds about right... 

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